At Frank’s Boot Company, we believe every great boot starts with one thing: exceptional leather. Whether you’re ordering a rugged work boot or a sleek limited-edition pair, the quality and characteristics of the leather make all the difference.
This guide breaks down what you need to know about leather thickness, tanning methods, hide types, and common defects, so you can understand exactly what goes into a Frank’s boot.
Leather Thickness
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7.5–8 oz Full Grain Leather: Used on any model if ordered in one of our four core work leathers.
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5–6 oz Premium Leather: Found primarily in our limited edition offerings, giving a dressier look with excellent flex and form.
Leather Tanning Methods
We use leather that has undergone different tanning processes, each affecting durability, color, and feel:
1. Vegetable-Tanned Leather
Typically tanned using organic materials like tree bark and other plants. It's the oldest method and creates multi toned leather that ages beautifully. Color becomes richer as it is exposed to air and water.
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Tanned with natural plant-based tannins
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Ages beautifully and develops patina
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Firm and structured feel
2. Chrome-Tanned Leather
It's the most popular process and uses a mix of minerals, salts and chemicals to tan the hide. Comes in a wide variety of colors.
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Tanned using chromium salts
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Softer, more flexible
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More color-fast and moisture-resistant
3. Oil-Tanned Leather
They will usually have a "pull up effect". The hide absorbs creases and gives a distressed look.
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Typically chrome-tanned and infused with oils
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Tough, water-resistant, and perfect for hard-working boots
4. Combination Tanned Leather
First chrome tanned, which makes the hides soft and pliable, and then re-tanning them with vegetable tannins to add rigidity and other desirable characteristics. It blends the benefits of both chrome and vegetable tanning, resulting in a versatile leather that is soft but also durable
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Offers a balance between chrome tanning and re-tanning with vegetable extracts, oils and waxes
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Smooth finish and durable quality
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Offers versatility
We select tanning methods based on boot function: our work leathers lean more on oil-tanned and chrome-tanned processes for durability like Seidel Tannery, while limited edition leathers may use vegetable tanning for their aesthetic aging and finish.
Types of Cowhide Cuts We Use
Not all leather comes from the same part of the cow. Here’s what we work with:
1. Full Hide
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The most usable pieces from the animal
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Offers the most flexibility in cutting patterns
- Some of our dress leather comes available as a full hide
2. Side (Hide)
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One half of a full hide (split lengthwise)
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Most common in our work leather and some of the limited edition leather
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Offers long, straight grain cuts—ideal for vamps and uppers
3. Neck and Belly Leather
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The upper portion of the hide near the neck and lower portion near the belly
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Has a distinct grain pattern; slightly less uniform, may have wrinkles
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May be used for false tongues and accent pieces such as a lineman flap
Recognizing Natural Defects & Characteristics
Since we work with genuine full grain leather, imperfections are part of the story—not flaws, but proof of authenticity.
Common Natural Features:
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Range Marks: Scars from barbed wire or brush
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Veining: Subtle marbling from blood vessels
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Insect Bites: Small marks that add character
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Stretch Marks/Wrinkles: Especially on bellies and neck
- Color Differentiation: Tanning can take to a hide, like stain to wood. It can vary from hide to hide and dye lot to dye lot.
At Frank’s, we embrace these natural markings. They don’t compromise durability—in fact, they make each pair unique.
Final Thoughts
Understanding the leather in your boots helps you appreciate the handmade craftsmanship that defines Frank’s Boot Company. From the thick, oil-tanned hides in our work boots to the sleek, vegetable-tanned leather in our limited editions, we never compromise on quality.
Crafting Our Boots
In crafting our boots at Franks, we adhere unwaveringly to a singular speed--dedicated to maintaining the esteemed standards that define our reputation. We consciously avoid incentivizing speed through piecework for our employees, prioritizing precision over haste to prevent errors and maintain rigorous quality control. We consistently use premium leathers at various weights and tanning methods to bring you the best selection possible. At Franks, we champion quality over quantity, understanding that while some may desire a quicker process, we firmly believe that speed compromises the essence of a true Franks Boot. We reject the notion of sacrificing durability, longevity and our high standards merely for expediency. Each Franks Boot earns its distinction through meticulous craftsmanship, ensuring it proudly bears the coveted Franks Boot Seal!
Visit our Leather Characteristics Page to explore all available hides and finishes—or contact us directly to help customize your next pair.